St.Louis skyline last night

The coolest plate in America for sure!

Live band...pretty loud so we hung outside so we could hear ourselves talk mostly :)

This is Larry who is riding the transam from sanfransisco.

Shinto in the town Popeye was 'born'...

The Illinois state flag

The ride today was pleasant enough and started late as I had been out on the town on st.Louis the night before...and a great time I had to!
The weather was humid and cooler than of late. The grey skies dominated the day and the sun didn't break through allday. I rode from Chester along the misissipi levee ...here the land is totally flat and mostly covered incorn. I wanted to swim in the river but the current looked pretty strong so I chose against it.
NVigating the rest of the day became harder and harder...I was glad I had pre loaded the routes to my Garmin which dug me out of the merde a few times.
I decided to skip around murphysboro as no doubt it is just another town full of cars and bad road surfaces and I headed to Carbondale instead...here I found the entire town shut. All I could find for food wad mc donalds...I bit my tongue and went in because it wad the only food option until tomorrow lunchtime earliest.
By now heavy drops of rain were falling and I raced along to devils kitchen lake to the campsite. Here I am now in the tent hiding from a deluge of bugs and.mosquitos. the place has showers and water at least so I can rest here.
Shintos chain is still slipping even though the bike shop serviced him. A new chain will mean a new cassette as well and I had a new o.e fitted before the trip...to expensive so ill soldier on.

There is definatly a different vibe about things now I am getting more east. Today there were parts where it was like Sussex or Surrey commuter belt almost...until.I got to the towns and it all went pear shaped lol!

As I type the dad in the tent next to me is failing to tune a guitar and impress his kids...mom has decided enuff is enuff and taken the truck to hunt for chips..and all on all things are good even though riding in cat ondale today had its stressfull moments I enjoyed the ride!

Devils kitchen lake Illinois tonight

I left devils kitchen later than usual this morning as there was a heavy thunderstorm and heavy rain...I thought it best to wait it out while I was still in the tent. I followed the map directions as best I could but the street signs here are hit and miss so I switched on the GPS and still managed a few wrong turns! The lanes around the lake reminded me a lot of some of the Sussex lanes I ride in in England..except for the sound of locusts and the numurous dear in the woods just off the roadside here seemingly interested in my bike..here they are timid if you stop riding I guess because they are pissed off with being shot at by hunters around here.
The wind was against me and the hills remain steep and short. It has cooled down a lot recently and the sky is grey with thunder clouds.
I'm trying to get a message to my friend in Kentucky but haven't been able to get WiFi or phone signal today.
At one point I hit a hole in the road so hard I thought my time had come..the front oannier fell off. But Shinto is ok.
When I got to eddyville I saw a pizza sign and followed my stomache in. Here I met a nice old guy with a ww 2 vets hat on. He had been fighting in the pacific back then and we spoke about that and my trip while I ate pizza. I had to decide if my legs would get me to the next town and the sky was getting darker...so my new friend offered to open up the community centre for me so I could sleep in the dry with a washroom without having to pay for camping or ride another 38 miles in the rain. It is generousity like this that I will remember the American people for. So that's several nights free sleeps on the trot to help make up for the costs of air con heaven in Kansas.

So ...next stop Kentucky!

The lake at devils kitchen Illinois after the storm this morning

The countryside in this part of Illinois is much like southern England...except for the wigwam lol!

The community centre where I was invited to stay at tonight. My tent is drying out on the porch after the soaking it got this morning. This is a tiny village of just 109 people...a gas station and a church...and one crazy English cyclist tonight!

Inside the community centre here in eddysville Illinois are photos of guys from this tiny place who fought ans died in various wars...mostly ww2.
I think its an honour to see this ...these guys from this tiny place ..so far away from Europe and the pacific gave their lives so we could be free...and here in an old wooden house on a hill in Illinois they once called home I get to see them. Not many Brits can say that.

Drying my wet tent in the sun at the community centre in eddysville Illinois.

What a facinating little place the community hall at edysville is. To many it would simply be a wooden hut with lights that don't work ..a place to.get out of the rain. I see more..the place is a little shrine to the people from the villages past..there are pictures of Scholl classes from 1916...a biker from the thirties...the village school teachers in the 50's...family portriats...all of past village life is here to see in what I suspect is a 'nothing' village in a nothing place to most.
I wonder what powers of the universe or life events got me here..eating m & m's and learning about the people who lived in this tiny village in Illinois all those years ago. I'm guessing this is.just one of thousands of such halls across the united states...the stories that these places could tell would be amazing I am sure.

Hi Scott...I'm in Marion Kentucky.have left messgw on your voice mail mate. Hope to hook up soon.

Today I rode a bicycle to the Missisipi river!

The last few hills of the Ozarks were steep as expected but they soon gave way to flatter land ad I left Missouri and entered the state of Illinois.

My legs were tired..even Free two days rest! I think I've been eating junk for so long that last nights home cooked meal was a shock to them!

Crossing the Missisipi river was very cool. It's such a monumental global landmark and I reached it by bicycle! I'm actually proud of myself!

The rider I met this morning from Boston was heading to Oregon...he wad worried he had left to late for the weather in the Rockies and was doing 100 miles a day to get there in time. If he can do that across the Rockies he will need to be superman!

In Chester Illinois I met Cindy at the visitor.centre . She kindly took a picture of.me.and wad.interested I'm my trip as she may do it herself one day. I'm sure she could do it easily.

Chester seems to be the home of Popeye the cartoon charachter. His statue.greets you as you ride into town. Olive oil doesn't appear anywhere though lol!

I got a subway and then found this ice cream bar with WiFi.

Tonight I have a free bed for the night at the fraternity of eagles ...they have a bar and a biker room with air con and a shower room all for free because I am riding the transam.

Tonight I'm meeting two friends from vs planet . I'm looking forward to that a lot.

Crossing the state line into Illinois land of Popeye the sailor man!

Me and Shinto at the Missisipi river in Chester Illinois .

Popeye and the ice cream place I am posting this from

As I left missouri this morning the roadside was lined with these blue flowers made a change from dead armadillos lol!

I've just been talking to the head of the parks dept here on Farmington who said this is the hottest driest summer since the dustbowl years of the 1930's. I have never seen so many dry river beds as I have in Kansas and Missouri...and here I am riding a bicycle through it all..ha ha..no wonder I've spent so much on Gatorade!

Well as today is slicing off the bike day I thought is treat myself to some real food...so tonight ill cook myself pasta a la transam..with a cycle salad ..with strawberry ice cream for desert and cherries for the sofa time. Wallmart here is huge and although I have navigated myself across 7 states on a bicycle I got lost in wallmart lol!
It's cooler an cloudy here today and talking to people here there is a sense of relief that the heat is less at least for a day or two.
This hostel comes with a free ticket to the waterpark here..I may go later..or just check out the guitar shop on the corner and hit the sofa again...mustn't overdo it today ha ha!
Anything or anyone to do with London is instantly popular here at the moment...as soon as people hear I am from near London they are very interested and friendly. I tell them I am a prince and 4th in line to become king...ha ha ;)

It's strange not riding today...my legs are used to hauling a loaded tour bike 70 miles or more up hills ...they feel as if they are still turning even though they arnt!

And this me in a recent band playing some deep purple, ozzy Osbourne and some rainbow classic tunes.

http://m.soundcloud.com/greenshredman/3-track-demo

What I sound like on a guitar for those who asked.

A few kind people I've met whilst riding here in the USA have been interested to hear me play guitar. Well I can't carry one with me on the bike but here is a link to a you tube video of me improvising some lead guitar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xpEE071KVM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The jailbreak from the hostel I am at tonight...how cool is this...have to ask how they got dynamite in the jailhouse...lucky they didn't eat the cake I suppose !

Cyclists from all over the globe stay here as they ride across America. This map on the wall has pins in from where they all come from.

The jersey is from the tour de Missouri which just had to be a very tough tour knowing the hills ghey have here!

Inside als place there is everything for a tired trsnsam cyclist...its a superb example of what a cycle or backpacker hostel should be. If you are riding the trsnsam make sure you stay here.

Tonight I'm sleeping in the jailhouse that is now called als place in Farmington Missouri. Shinto is in the bike shop over the road getting a tune up.

The moat that surrounded the fort at the centre of the battle. The tens were trying to take it from the outnumbered unipn forces. They could have just shot it up with cannon from the surrounding hi ground but noooo...they had to charge it head on and get cut to ribbons.

Shinto on the battlefield at pilot knob Missouri

The Missouri state flag flying on the black river today

Oh really...I'm not so sure my god requires either..just that I live the life I have been given well and make the.most of the chances I make for myself and don't puss others off too much along the way.

Todays ride from Ellington to Farmington Missouri was another hilly ride. But after a night in the motel I felt better and even with no breakfast or lunch and just two pepsis my legs got me to farmington easily over some really steep hills. On the way I was again attacked by a dog running free ..the owners are a danger to cyclists and should be made to keep their mutts off the highway.
I stopped at the usual run down gas stations here for a couple of cokes , a few friendly people and rode on to pilot knob...which isn't a condition affecting airline captains but a civil war battlefield in Missouri. Here I was lost in the past..I like all the history and the story of what happened here. The old fort is still visable and the ammo dump that blew up and left a crator...I think the union guys were in the fort and the rebels were attacking it. I could have stayed longer but wanted to get to the bike shop in Farmington before it closed to get Shinto patched up.
I passed the usual deluge of churches with weird messages from god outside..past placards asking me to vote Michael Jackson to the senate..or was it Sherrif...and into farminton. Here I was welcomed by no less than bud the head of parks in his truck...I found the bike shop and it looks like they will do a good job. Opposite the bike shop is als place..a purpose built bike hostel for riders of the trsnsam route..how cool!

The place is built in the old jailhouse and inside it is home..clean, tidy, lounge kitchen beds showers laundry computers all I want..air con..the works. I will rest here.
Whoever made this place happen is a star!
There should be mote places like this on the route..who knows maybe I could set one up.
Todays roadkill count was three armadillos one snake two dogs (hopefully the ones who attack cyclists) one cat one owl and several small rodent like things with black and white tails..
...back to als place...there is a map here of where cyclists come from all over the world to ride the trsnsam..very cool hostel...and there wad a jail break from here and they used dynamite to escape..to cool!!

Elevation profile for yesterday and today.

Current river Missouri...one of the few rivers with water in this summer..and this one was less than half full.

Hills like this one look harmless in a photo but trust me they are killer hills and go on forever, mile after mile of steep sharp hills with the last ten metres always getting even steeper just as your legs ate screaming out for amputation lol!

Jacks fork river at ally spring missouri

Today I went to church...well..the ride from Houston to Ellington Missouri was hot..long..tough..and a rollercoaster ride of steep sharp climbs I'd guess at about 20% grade for the mostpart. The frustrating thing was that as soon as you get to the top you go down again and have to climb it all over again. Here whoever built the roads didn't want to follow rivers...they just built roads straight up and down any hill in their path...even the FedEx truck had a problem on one hill. I stopped in eminence and my ice cream radar took me directly to a pint of soft ice...then a second..oops ;)
I have to be honest and say that Ellington is not a nice town. It seems very rundown and looks like many places are out of business and people seem pretty hard up here. I went to the Jesus is lord bike hostel on my map but Jesus was pissed that he was still on the cycle map.
...on the ride I'd ran out of water again..its so hot...just then a miracles from the almighty himself...a pentocostal baptist vhucrch of faith god and all things holy appeared with a tap and a watering can...to a hot cyclist like me this is called a free shower!
I tried the warm shower host in town but he said he needed three days notice and e mail confirmation...erm..mate that's not really any good to a cycle tourist...so I tried the city park...shitsville is a term I don't use often but here it is justified...so I headed for the only.motel in town mostly so I would feel safe around here. Expensive few days.
The Ozarks are ok I guess but the Rockies were more scenic and fun to ride. Maybe I've been spoilt lol!
I was only chRged twice by hlbilly dogs today and both backed down when I discussed their life expectancy if they continued to behave that way with them.
Why don't people here keep their dogs under control
??

Shinto is on teal need of a service..the gears are slipping on the hills making riding really tough..I tightened the cable but it makes no real difference so I guess it needs a new cable...the map shows a bike shop I'm farmington...I'm going to church first thing tomorrow to pray for it to be open lol! I swear there seem to be two churches for every one person here..but I've not yet seen anybody at church. I don't want to offend anyone...but to my.mind around here religion seems to be taken to extremes...but...I thank thew lord for todays free shower..amen ;)

Shinto in the Ozark mountains today

Man my body is stiff after those hills yesterday...could sleep here alll day if it weren't so expensive. I've lost and forgotton my cell number..if anyone has it please let me have it back lol!
Right...its time to ride up some hills called Ozarks..due to an impromtu basketball game outside my room last last night I didn't get much sleep...ill find a tree somewhere and sleep sometime.

I have the added plus of smelling good today ha ha ha!

Tonight I am back in air con heaven ..a motel in houston Missouri...it was a must as I was on the edge of being sick from the heat and drinking hot water all day. I also saw cows passing out with my body odour as I rode past and birds of prey circling overhead..I smelt B A D. Time to shower, shave, wash my kit, eat some real food, and above all give Shinto some TLC. As I checked into the motel the Indian guy behind the desk was from Bradford...well of course lol!

The drivers here outside the towns pass wide and slow right down. The hills and blind bends make head on smashes likely I guess when passing..But here the car drivers also wave goof luck as they pass. Cool.

There sent many big trucks becduse of the hills..yay!

I'm still amazed at how many churches I see..and endless placards for elections.

The roadkill situation has changed...I'm seeing mostly armadillos, snakes , turtles, and what I think are skunks...or maybe racoons?

I saw a huge owl today washing its feathers in one of the few rivers with water in it...pretty cool I thouht.

All in all missouri do far is a good state to ride...very tough hills and hot but green and there is shade. The small gas stations seem to be the social centre for the local farmers on cowboy hats to hang out all day discussing the radius of fence posts. Here you can buy plastic ear tags for your cows in the gas station...hmm lol!

I have a feeling I'm not in Kansas anymore lol!

Missouris never ending roller coaster has started. Still got the headwinds to deal with but today was a bit cooler although still in the mid 90f. The trees Herr are deciduos and the fields greener. I slept in late to make max use of the air con and only rode 30 miles to golden city...which is not golden or a city..but a small town of 600 people ish huddled around the usual gas station store. I was going to ride on to Everton but there is no city path there to sleep in so golden city park is home for tonight.
Leaving Kansas was almost emotional as the people have been so nice to me..but I won't be sorry to see the end of the winds.
The lady who serves pizza in the gas station thought I was from Belgium...and told me my accent was a dream...hmmm...that and the girl who said she liked my helmet in also earlier ...I think I shall keep my mouth shut from now on lol!

The park tonight is alive with locusts singing again..no pool though...will have to have strong words with the town Sherrif or someone!
Every house here has at least 3 election boards in the garden..seems everyone wants to be sherrif or sit on the senate or something.
Also there are churches everywhere..all different types and all locked up.
I am now getting into civil war territory..and will more so as I ride east. I find all that very interesting.
As I came out of the gas station store there was a guy on a horse at the pumps ..I think the horse could drink from the bu key there but it looked so funny.
I haven't seen another cyclist for several days now..I think most westbound riders have passed me now and I them..Although the pizza lady did say she had fallen in lurve with a Greek accent on a bike going east a week ago lol!
I am pretty tired out and could do with a day off the bike just sleeping in sitcom heaven..but its expensive and not always available..besides I just had a stint of that so its time to rough it again like a real cyclist...lol!
I'm going to try to find some dry ice to keep my water cool on the bike...Mark suggested it last nigght so I will see.if I can find some...on the next 'big' town.
The Ozarks are coming so there will be more climbing soon..I hope my knee holds out..it will..because it has to.
Now the question right now is do I bed down on the covered basketball court or pitch a tent...I'm tempted by the basketball court as it looks more likely to survive a deluge of rain like last nights...just bet ill wake up on the middle of a game ha ha!
There is a different feel to Missouri..I can sense I am getting east now and like each state I have crossed so far I am sure this one will bring both challenges and wonders.